Expanded fish Care
Pufferfish General care
Figure 8 Pufferfish
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Actinopterygii
Order: Tetraodontiformes
Family: Tetraodontidae
Genus: Dichotomyctere
Species: Dichotomyctere ocellatus
Care level-Experienced
Temperament and Behavior- Typically aggressive
Lifespan-1-10+years depends on species
Size- 1-24 inches dependent on species
Diet- Puffer Fish share a curiosity to hunt down snails, oysters, other crustaceans, and many other things. They are carnivores requiring meat in their diet. Offering fish flakes is a general waste of time, but I have had some luck with VibraBites. Feeding shelled food will help trim their beaks back, which are two fused top teeth and two fused bottom teeth. Side-note Pufferfish of all kinds are super cute especially when they yawn and fully show their beak. I have only kept smaller Pufferfish over the years, and feeding snails seems to work very well. I never had an issue where I needed to trim back their teeth. However, I have heard that larger Puffer may need trimming, but feeding a food they will have to crush will naturally help. Every Pufferfish that has been in my care has quickly attacked and eaten up frozen blood worms; however, don't strictly rely on frozen foods. Your Puffer should have a round belly, but not swollen one. They will absolutely beg for food, always acting hungry but do not overfeed them.
Minimum Tank Size- I have kept four Pea Puffers in a 5-gallon planted tanked tank, and everything worked great until I lost the first one. I kept three Green Spotted Puffers in a 30-gallon and four Figure-8 Puffers in a 40-gallon breeder. Many varieties of Puffers need to be in an aquarium alone; they do not do well with others. Some can be kept in a small group. Remember, they can be territorial, needing to have aquarium decor to give each their own specific spot, helping break up their line of sight. I used plastic plants and driftwood species since some need salinity, and live aquarium plants did not do well.
pH-7.0-8.0
Water Hardness- I have hard water but do your research on the specific Puffer Fish; each requires its own water parameters. Only a few are truly freshwater, many will need a salinity to their water.
Temperature- Puffer Fish are tropical fish and do best in 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit water.
Tank-mates- Puffers are not a species of fish that I would recommend having tank-mates. They generally are territorial, nippy, and meat-loving Fish.
Recommended Group Size- Depends on species. Pea Puffers are a freshwater, small fish species that can be in a small group; however, more oversized Puffers need to be alone in their own aquarium. Do your research on the specific Puffer you wish to keep.
Tank Setup- The tank setup will be strictly dictated by the Puffer you wish to keep, and research needs to be taken. A newly setup aquarium needs to be set up and established before adding the Puffer, you wish you keep. The only advice I can give is on the Puffers I have kept.
Pea Puffers- I kept three tiny Pea Puffers in a freshwater 5-gallon planted aquarium. The substrate was a mix of sand and gravel. They enjoyed a diet of snails and VibraBites.
Green Spotted Puffers- I had three Green Spotted Puffers in a 30-gallon gravel bow-front tank. I was a young fish keeper and made the mistake of keeping them with incompatible tankmates. I was under the impression they were to be kept in freshwater. Unfortunately, I lost these Puffers to due the wrong diet, stress, and wrong water parameters. Green Spot Puffers need salinity in their water as they age. Young Green Spotted Puffers can be in freshwater when they are younger, but as time goes by, they need salt added to the water. I suggest letting the salt slowly dissolve in a separate bucket using the freshwater going into the aquarium. You will need to raise the specific gravity to 0.012 over their lifetime.
Figure 8 Puffers- I kept four Figure 8 Pufferfish in a 40-gallon aquarium. The substrate was a mix of sand and small aquarium gravel. I did have a specific gravity of 0.012 starting off. Since the aquarium plants do not typically enjoy salt, I have a large driftwood piece and four fake aquarium plants to help break up their line of sight. The small group seemed to get along well, swimming together and quickly eating snails and blood worms. Each has a preferred spot in the aquarium. I had a Fluval U2 filter on the tank.
Males v. Females- Telling the difference between males and females is extremely difficult and might not be possible depending on the species. In some species, the pattern's coloration and males are brighter and have a tiny wrinkle around their eyes. I do not have any experience breeding Puffers of any kind.
Keeping Pufferfish is extremely rewarding. They have big eyes and huge personalities. Whether they are big or small, Puffers will learn to greet you. It is as if they are excited to see you across the room and grow more excited as you move closer to their aquarium. However, no puffer is like the other, and specific research is necessary for the Puffer you wish to keep. Not all "freshwater" Puffers sold are truly freshwater fish. Pufferfish are generally not easy to breed in captivity, but it is possible for some species. Many Pufferfish in the hobby are wild-caught and full of internal parasites and often fed snails. Pufferfish need to be treated for parasites readily. Remember that Puffers lack the first line of defense between them and external conditions. They are scale-less fish and are sensitive to water quality, and they have spines of various sizes. Do not use medication that contains copper. Even though Puffers are known for their ability to puff out and swell, please do not ever make your Pufferfish do this. It is exceptionally stressful and toxic for them.